Unpack your grip panels. You will notice that we have
already polished them.
This polish will be completely sanded off by the time
you are done fitting and
ready to polish. We did this so you will be able to see
what they should look
like when you are done.
Make certain that the firearm is UNLOADED!
Remove the existing grips from your pistol. Replace the
back strap if your
originalgrips are 1 piece type. Make sure all grip frame
screws are tight.
Take one grip panel and place it on the grip frame to
check initial fit. Donít worry
it probably wonít fit exactly at this point you just
want to get an idea of what you
will need to alter.
Behind the trigger and below the hammer is the area of
the grip called the shoulder.
It looks like a 90 degree angle but it is usually not
so. The edge of this area also
looks like a 90 degree angle but is usually 1-3 degrees
or 86- 89 degrees depending
on your perspective.
The shoulder needs to be adjusted to fit the gun leaving
enough material all the
way around the frame. This may require completely
changing the angle for the
Colt clones. Note: Not knowing the angle of your
particular gun (if you received
the Colt Clone oversized grips) we left quite a bit of
extra material around the
grip to accommodate as many frame styles as possible.
Fit the shoulder using your disc sander. A paper grit of
220 or higher is recommended.
you will need to remove the grip panel alignment pin in
the frame if your
gun has one. Then using a quick grip clamp with rubber
pads clamp one panel
to the frame. Double check that the shoulder is still
If you are making 1 piece grips skip ahead to step five.
Continue with step 4 if
you are making 2 piece grips.
It is now time to mark the alignment pin hole. You will
need a corded or cordless
drill and a drill bit. Find a drill bit that fits but
still turns in the alignment pin hole.
Since you will only be doing the marking operation 2
times you can use the
drill bit as normal. If you are concerned about marring
the inside of the
alignment pin hole on your grip frame you can do what we
do. We take the
dull end and on a grinder make a small pencil point on
it. Then we put a
small chisel point on the end. If you do this just mount
the drill bit in the
With your grip panel clamped put the drill bit in the
alignment pin hole and
slowly drill just enough to mark it. Un-clamp the panel
and repeat on the other side.
Re-insert your alignment pin making certain it is
centered in the frame.
Using a dremel and a 1/8ď - 3/16Ē steel ball shaped
cutter make a hole where
you marked the back of the grip panel. Only go as deep
as you need.
Constantly check the depth by putting your grip panel
on. Once you have
the correct depth make certain that the shoulder still
Donít worry about it being a bit loose. Taking care of
that is next.
Doing one panel at a time spray some silicone oil or
WD40 on the
grip frame around the alignment pin. If the alignment
pin is hollow
shove a toothpick in each side and trim flat with a
razor. Be sure
it gets oiled too. With a paper towel dab off the excess
Clean out the hole you made in your grip panel.
Mix up a small amount of JB Quick weld or some other
fast setting industrial
epoxy. With a toothpick dab some of this into the hole
making sure to get it
really wet inside. Scrape off the excess with the other
end of the toothpick.
Carefully place your grip panel on the frame. Using
several rubber bands, up
and down the frame, tightly secure the panel and check
that it is still properly
fitted up in the shoulder. After the proper amount of
set time remove, clean
with knife and do the other side. You have just made a
custom alignment pin hole.
Place one grip panel on the frame and clamp with the
quick clamp. Make
sure the shoulder is still properly lined up. Turn the
gun over and mark along
the grip frame on the grip with a thin pencil. Do all
areas at the shoulder
as well. Remove the clamp and do the other panel.
If you have access to a spindle sander then this will
work very well for
removing the material down to the pencil line. If not
you will have to use
a sanding drum on a dremel or die grinder. Go slowly and
You CANíT put material back on the grip!
Re-contour the edge with your dremel or die grinder
working back into
a smooth contour.
If you are making a 1 piece grip skip to step nine.
Put the old grip from your gun face up on its matching
Tru Ivory grip.
Line up the shoulder. Cut the end off a Q tip and use
the paper part.
Put some magic marker on the end of the cut Q tip and
screw hole using the old grip on top as the guide.
Using the supplied grip screw pilot bit carefully drill
through the grip.
Make sure the grip panel is on a solid surface on your
drill press like
Corian or something similar. Slowly, with little
pressure drill through
the grip. The flat side needs to be down. When it feels
like the bit wants
to come through the other side slow down even more. Too
will cause it to chip out on the back.
Now to drill the other side. Since the holes have to be
in perfect alignment
you can drill the other one the same way. Here is what
we do. Take the grip
you just drilled and place it on the gun. Now put 4
layers of masking tape
on the outside of the other grip where the screw hole
will be. This helps
to keep it from chipping out as this hole will be
drilled from the flat side.
Put this panel on the gun too and secure with a couple
of rubber bands.
Make sure the shoulder is aligned.
Swing the drill press table out of the way. Holding your
gun level with the
bench and the drilled grip side up slowly raise the gun
up to the bit. Allow
it to pass through the hole keeping it level with the
table. Slowly raise the
gun and this will drill an aligned hole in the other
Use your sand paper using 220 grit and carefully shape
sand the grips.
Donít sand the edge that fits into the shoulder of the
gun. That will change
the way it fits the shoulder.
Final fitting of the grip is just a mater of patience
and time. Put the grip on
the gun, feel around the edge where it over hangs and
use your 220 paper
to slowly take the excess off. Go SLOW. Re-check,
re-check, re-check, re-check...get the idea, go slow and
the fit is the way you want.
Once both panels are fitted, sand with the 320 then the
400 grit papers.
Since the Tru Ivory is a hand-made material it can
contain very small air
bubbles. These, if present, will show up as little white
specs on your grips.
That would be a small air bubble that has been sanded
through and holds
fine Tru Ivory dust. Leave the dust in. We are going to
re-constitute it with
a 50-50 mixture of very, very thin super glue and
acetone. Mix this in a
plain white, un-coated paper cup. Now use a Q tip and
dab a bit onto
each little spec. If your Q tip begins to get hard, and
it will pretty quick,
get a new one. Seal all specs before proceeding.
Sand your grips with 600 grit paper and be sure to
remove any excess
sealant from the top. Once this is done finish up with
the 800 grip paper.
You will now polish your grips. Using a bench mounted
and a loose stitched muslin wheel and the polishing
rouge we included
carefully polish your grips. Use light pressure and keep
the grip moving.
If you are not familiar with the risks involved in using
a polishing wheel
please ask someone who does have the experience to do
it. If the grip
gets caught by the edge of the spinning wheel it will
probably fly out of
your hand and may break when it hits what ever it is
going to hit when
it goes flying.
If you are making a 1 piece grip skip to step 14.
You now need to counter-bore the grip screw holes to put
the grip screw
nuts in. You will NOT be drilling all the way through
the grip. Use a 1/4ď
drill bit meant for metal. Test it in the test piece of
Tru Ivory we sent. If
it does not drill clean get another bit until it can
drill without chipping.
you are ready to counter sink the grip screw holes to
accept the grip
screw nuts. Take one grip and counter sink it with the
drill press just a little
bit. Now you have to size your grip screw nuts. These
nuts are normally
force fit into an expandable material such as wood, but
Tru Ivory doesnít
expand like wood and force fitting could cause them to
NOT FORCE THE GRIP SCREW NUTS!
Using a file carefully file off the ridges on the grip
screw nut edges until
it just slips into the counter sink hole you started.
Then do this to the
other grip screw nut.
Now put the threaded nut on the end of the grip screw,
just a few turns
will do. Continue to slowly drill the counter sink hole.
to check the depth using the grip screw nut on the end
of the grip screw.
When it is just a hair below the surface you will know
that it is deep
enough. Now counter sink the other panel the same way.
Put a little thick super glue out on a piece of foil.
Using a toothpick pick
and a small amount of the glue, smear it along the
inside of the counter
sink area of the grip hole. Put one nut in the hole.
SURE IT IS ORIENTED CORRECTLY!
Do the same with the other grip.
If you have enough clearance with the mainspring you can
super glue the
supplied plastic washers to the back of the grip over
the hole. This will
give it a little greater strength.
Let the glue cure for at least 30 minutes before
mounting your grips. Now
thread the screw through and finger tighten. Mark the screw where it
needs to be cut to length. Remove, cut and file the end.
Now you are ready to have some Tru Ivory shooting fun!
Those with cut and drilled center blocks (Colt original
grips only) need
only check the fit and thickness.
Those who have the Colt Clone oversized will have a
to make the center block. Different manufactures of
different clones have
differently shaped back straps. This is why your block
Take your center block and trace the back strap and
frame bottom onto it
allowing enough room for the mainspring. Cut the block
out. Check the fit
and make needed adjustments with a spindle sander,
dremel, die grinder
or whatever you can use. Adjust it until it fits the
contour of the inside
of the grip frame.
Drill 3 holes through the center block. Now using a
bench type belt sander
or 50-80 grit paper on a flat surface, sand the block
until it is of the correct
thickness for the frame. It should be a little thinner
than the frame.
you are ready to begin gluing the panels to the center
are going to need your J B Weld, several rubber bands,
oil and a covered
table to work on.
Prep your grip frame by spraying it with oil. Keep the
oil away from the
center block and the grip panels.
You are going to use JB Weld the regular formulae,
unless you can work
really fast then you could try the JB Quick Weld.
Lay your gun out with the barrel facing to the left. You
are going to glue
the right grip panel first. Lay it under the grip frame.
Orient your center
block so that it is positioned to go in the frame on the
grip panel. It is
very important to turn the block over so you get the JB
on the correct side.
Mix up enough J B Weld to glue the one panel and to put
the epoxy in
the center block holes you drilled. Fill the holes
first, then spread evenly
a thin coat on the top of the center block. Now turn the
block over, glue
side down and firmly press against the grip panel in the
the block to the furthest lower and back position. Pick
up the entire
assembly, holding the grip panel on with your fingers
wrap the grip and frame, up and down its length, with
bands. Turn the gun over and check the alignment and fit
of the grip,
then turn over again and re-check the center block, then
and so on. Once you are sure that both the grip and the
are where they should be, let the gun lie on its side
until the epoxy sets.
Take the grip off the gun and re-spray with oil.
Reinsert the grip and
block. Mix up some more epoxy and carefully spread
enough on the
exposed side of the center block to assure contact with
the other grip
panel. When you put the second panel on press firmly.
Look for any
epoxy coming out and wipe off with a tissue. The gun is
oiled so later
you can scrape off any excess with your finger nail or a
Secure it with your rubber bands and make sure the grip
is properly aligned.
When the epoxy sets, but not fully cured, remove the
Take the backstrap off the gun and carefully remove the
grips just to
make sure it is not bonding to the inside of the frame.
excess epoxy from the frame and re-assemble the gun with
Rubber band them again and let it lie untouched for the
Now you are ready to have some Tru Ivory shooting fun!